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How to fertilize with manure: fresh or ripe, quantity to distribute, how to use it and on which crops the manure should be administered.
How to fertilize with manure:the vegetables to be fertilized
Therefertilizing with manureit should be performed only in a part of the garden because not all plants prefer direct manuring but all plants like the effects thatmanure as a fertilizerproduces over the long term.
Fertilization with direct fertilization must be performed on all those crops that see a large production or provide for strong plant yields, namely:
- strawberries
- tomato
- sweet pepper
- aubergine
- cetrolo
- watermelon
- melon
- thistle
- celery
- artichokes
- asparagus
- pumpkin
- courgette
Most of the ornamental plants also prefer fertilization with manure which must be administered to the bottom of the hole at the time of planting, separated from the roots by a draining layer of soil mixed with gravel.
There are some garden plants that do not appreciate direct manure but prefer to benefit from the long-term effects of manure. This preference goes very well with the crop rotations to be done in the garden. If in the previous year you fertilized a plot of land cultivated with tomatoes (or one of the cultivars listed above) with manure, in the following year, in that area of the garden, do not administer manure and grow one of these plants:
- leek
- garlic
- shallot
- onion
- bean
- green bean
- chard
- carrots
- radishes
- spinach
- lettuces
- salads
- all leafy vegetables
- all aromatic plants
Fresh or mature manure
On the page dedicated tomanure as a fertilizerwe have explained to you the importance of using amature manureor even old. Fresh manure, having not gone through any fermentation phase, leaves a very wet mass without bringing the necessary quantities of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and other nutrients useful to the soil. In addition, fresh manure (whether or not with straw, hay and other bedding) does not make structural improvements to the soil structure.
Sheep or chicken manure
Thechicken manure or droppings, as well as sheep manure (sheep manure), were once widely used in agriculture. Today they play a more marginal role. Due to the characteristics of sheep manure and droppings, these two fertilizers are used for working the land before sowing forage crops. Chicken manure and sheep manure are used to fertilize fields destined for renewal crops such as cereals.
Horse or bovine manure
Poultry and sheep manure have stepped aside, leaving room for more nutritious fertilizers capable of making improvements also from a structural point of view, namely horse and bovine manure.
The differences between fertilization with horse and bovine manure were described in the article dedicated to "manure as fertilizer ". The same page analyzed the differences between manure and products such as manure or similar marketed in the form of pellets or flakes.
How to fertilize with manure:dose and quantity to be administered
It is not easy to talk about dosages: how much manure to use to fertilize the garden? It all depends on the type of soil and the work you intend to perform.
In the case of very clayey, heavy, poor in organic matter and with a tendency to stagnation soils, there are no limits to be used but it is important to usevery mature manureso as to perform very deep machining. It is also possible to use medium-ripened soil (a little cooler) for shallower workings and to obtain a soil with less tendency to form crusts.
Whenfertilized with manure, at least during the first year, it is important not to also administer chemical cover fertilizers (granular products or the like that must be distributed on the surface).
In case of land "already good "(so that you already use for the cultivation of your garden), thedose of manurerecommended forfertilizationamounts to 4 kg of manure for every square meter of land.
If the land has never been used for growing vegetables, at the time of planting, it is recommended to administer 6 kg of manure for each square meter of land in the garden to be cultivated.
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